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In December, 2015, Von Trier underwent its first Bar Exam, which noted:
- Its prominent location
- Its vaguely 1950s supper club exterior
- The overwhelming profusion of Teutonic artifacts found throughout
Nearly four years later the above remains a statement of fact:
- Von Trier is one of six buildings (four bars, two banks) located at the heart of a busy commercial intersection where four streets converge at one point. A billboard atop the roof of the single-story structure is another hint to the prominence of the location
- It was built as an upscale cocktail lounge in 1949
- The interior with its numerous authentic German furnishings has remained in place since 1978.
In 2009 John Sidoff and his wife Cindy, owners since 1978 of the neighboring Hooligan’s, bought Von Trier, and carried on with business as usual, so we should not be surprised to see things much the same today.
But in fact, it is surprising: although Von Trier has maintained its look and ambience, there was a brief period — a very brief period — in the summer of 2017 when the Sidoffs considered revamping it as an upscale cocktail lounge.
After all, that is what the place was when Frank Rieder built it on the foundation of his family’s original tavern.
AN ATTEMPT TO CHANGE WITH A CHANGING EAST SIDE
Sidoff was aware of the changes underway in the evolving East Side business district, some of which, like the expansion and remodeling of Hooligan’s, he had instituted himself. German-themed taverns and restaurants had hardly been the vogue since Von Trier adopted the mode, and Sidoff watched as outposts of other former enemies like Vietnam and Japan established beachheads of their own in the area.
He saw young mixologists with handlebar moustaches muddling, stirring and shaking cocktails in crisp, clean and airy clubs that were more salon than saloon; where the customer was the decor in a sparse environment. And here he was, operating a cluttered cabinet of curiosities, abounding in nooks and crannies. What was he supposed to be doing? Running an easy-to-maintain bar? Or dusting off the antlers of a Cyril Colnik chandelier? He found out soon enough.
NEIGHBORS OPPOSE CHANGE
Sidoff’s apparently well-reasoned business decision took the community by storm. News outlets carried the story, while customers carried petitions opposing the change. The response was overwhelming: Keep it as it is!
In October, 2017, Sidoff announced that he would retain the original format, give the place a good scrubbing, add a full service kitchen, and enlist partners Wes Shaver and Mike Sorge of the Black Sheepto help run the joint. It reopened in January, 2018.
This May, John and Cindy Sidoff announced that they were selling the business to Mark Zierath, the owner of Jackson’s Blue Ribbon Pub, which is located on the grounds of the original Pabst brewery. Zierath was enthusiastic about the place and the format, and took the reins on May, 14th, at an event attended by the mayor, neighbors, many longtime customers, as well as the Sidoffs, who raised a “Prosit” to the past and future. The mayor tapped a keg of Hofbrauhaus-Freising Jaegerbier, and the party was on, including free “bier.” (See photo gallery below.)
In a statement, Zierath paid tribute to the previous owners, and to the format of the bar:
I could not be more excited to continue the tradition of Von Trier. I am so grateful to John and Cindy for this business opportunity. I also truly appreciate the decision they made to keep Von Trier as it is, an iconic German tavern on Milwaukee’s east side. I plan to make changes to the craft cocktail menu and food offerings by expanding the kitchen, but Von Trier will remain Von Trier as Milwaukeean’s have known it since 1978.
Among the celebrants was Jim Haertel, the owner of the original Pabst tour center, now operated as Best Place at the Pabst. He was dressed as King Gambrinus, and he ruled. This time, the Germans won.
THE TAVERN TODAY
From within, Von Trier is a calm outpost. Here, the busy street life outside is more sensed than seen. The light is filtered through the stained-and painted-glass windows, giving color and dimension to the chandeliers, plaques, beer steins, and the tons upon tons of Schmiedearbeiten executed by wrought iron workers, some now dead for centuries. The floor is made of quarry tile, deepening the already dark atmosphere, and adding to its warmth. A room to the side is a few steps down, and leads to another open room a few steps up. There are delights for the eye everywhere, especially for those seeking a relief from minimalist drinking, while not caring to be surrounded by the ersatz knicknacks of American brewers and distillers. This is a place to take visitors, if only to show them that such a place still exists.
The beer list is extensive, and it is unlikely one will encounter a larger selection of European beers on tap elsewhere in the area — or in Chicago, for that matter. The selection of beer glasses and steins ranges from tulips to boots, while the extensive wine list is served in light, thin glasses with a high center of gravity, balanced on slender stems, a counterpoint to the steins, which are hard enough to lift when nearly empty. And of course, the bartenders know how to muddle, shake and stir just like their counterparts toiling at their labors in less elaborate surroundings.
All in all, Von Trier’s offers a counterintuitive lesson about the evolution of the East Side, which incorporates the preservation of well-loved venues as well as the re-creation of old ones, as we see here.
For a complete history of the building’s history, see Bar Exam: Von Trier’s is a Teutonic Treasure, December 18th, 2015.
Additional Urban Milwaukee coverage of Von Trier’s, 2012-2019
PHOTO GALLERY
